Forgive the run-on sentences and block paragraphs. It’s a travelogue diary, not a literary piece. 😂
Day One
An early morning breakfast at Tiger’s started our day because that’s what we do on a Saturday. Drove to VA where we scooped up the cutest granddaughter.
We made bracelets, ate a picnic on the back porch, checked into a hotel room and enjoyed watching Natty lounge by our third story view of the Burg while crunching on apples and watching Crood on a big screen. We flexed our creativity while painting ceramics at an art shop and were not surprised at all that our granddaughter wanted to paint the largest unicorn she could find with various shades of pink and purple. Ate ice cream at Smiley’s, made a stop at Buc-ee’s to feed my husband’s sour rainbow strip addiction, and eventually returned Nat to her parents after they returned home from their rare date opportunity.
Hard goodbyes, Parcheesi, and sleep followed.
Day Two
Woke to rain in the Valley. Perfect southern biscuits and buttery grits accompanied my omelette at Kathy’s in Staunton after two breakfast misses earlier in the day. We snubbed the hotel breakfast (save the chocolate muffin we wrapped in a napkin for the road). Strike two was sitting at the Cracker Barrel table long enough to peruse all the unhealthy options, give Jim my order, try on a blue dogwood print dress from the gift shop in the Cracker Barrel restroom (an undeniable low point of my existence) and return to the table only to find Jim still waiting to see a waitress. We left without fanfare.
The sun appeared in time for a stop by an old favorite shop in Staunton (Sun Spot Studios Glassblowing) to buy a marvelous glass fish who is basically useless except for the whimsical charm he will add to my life. Spot (yes…we named him) will hang with some of my other favorite things in our family room bay window.
Asked Jim to pull over in Goshen, VA where I inexpertly jumped some rocks to climb under a bridge for a better view of the water. I could hear roosters crowing in the distance and was delighted by the sound of a steam train chugging by, pulling shiny red cars and passengers on a scenic railway tour. Jim stood outside the rental car with a mixture of amusement and concern on his face. He was trying to decide whether to come rescue me from my side quest by the impossibly clear rushing waters or leave me to my own devices.
Drove the winding roads through gorgeous George Washington National Forest. Springtime blossoms and the shimmering limelight of emerging leaves reminded me that some things in our country are yet unspoiled. Less encouraging…we passed many rusted-out car carcasses and confederate battle flags edging cluttered properties with occupied mobile homes and shacks. Many homes wore caved-in, plastic-tarp-patched, or plywood-reinforced rooftops. Poverty and beauty go hand in hand in these hills. A brief stop in historic Lewisburg where we hiked up a trail to a civil war cemetery.
Ninety-five confederate soldiers were buried there in a mass grave under a cross-shaped mound.
Our next stop was the underground Beckley Exhibition Coal Mine. Our guide, Wilson, was a miner for almost three decades. His West Virginia accent was thick, pronouncing Coal Mine as “COwell man.” He regaled us with tales of his mining days and the dangers and hardships they faced.
Adding to my baseline worry about ineffective education in this nation, two twenty-somethings who accompanied us on the rail car tour had never before heard of a canary. 😵💫 Checked into our hotel, walked through a center showcasing the work of local artisans, and found ourselves some dinner before Parcheesi, books, and bed.
Day Three
We had breakfast and set our GPS to the Smoky Mountain Knife Works shop in Sevierville, Tennessee. Unbelievably for April 20th (and so far south of home), late season snow flurries accompanied us for hours.
The scenic hills along the highway were a rollercoaster of climbing and descending. The recurring vertical drops had one of the tractor trailers we passed producing a telltale billowing cloud which revealed the dying gasps of the truck’s overtaxed brakes. The stench was inescapable. We travelled some tunnels, the first of which was a tunnel carved through East River Mountain which began in West Virginia and spit us out in Virginia. We entered Tennessee around 11:30am.
Spent 90 minutes killing time in the enormous Smoky Mountain Knife Works in Seiverville while Jim carefully considered thousands of pointy daggers. Purchases secured, we drove for another several hours, arriving in Nashville just before 5pm. It was time to start bracing myself for Country Music. 😝
Located our adorable AirBnB along the Cumberland River, unpacked, and almost immediately drove back out into the city to get the lay of the land. We got lucky with a parking spot, walked down Broadway, and a plethora of blinking neon signs greeted us on both sides of the street.
Diagonal crossings are permitted in the intersections and though it is very organized with painted lines, it still feels to me like a free-for-all.
There was live music coming from every direction. The thumping upright bass drew us into Ole Red for dinner and drinks and we grabbed a front row table to hear Wild Bill and the Bruisers. A perfect introduction to Nashville.
Day Four
From the patio this morning , I had a gorgeous view of the sun coming up over the Cumberland River. We started our day by walking approximately a mile along the river to downtown Nashville. The horrific Trail of Tears went through this area in 1838. The Cherokee were marched mercilessly over the Cumberland River National Toll-bridge. Honestly, people have always been cruel. There really is nothing new under the sun.
We wandered among the inlaid granite stars honoring Country Music greats at the Music City Walk of Fame Park. Took my husband’s pic next to Jimi Hendrix’s spot since one of Jim’s more ambitious overnight dreams involved actually performing AS Jimi Hendrix on stage.
We arrived at the Johnny Cash Museum right at opening time and both of us perused every display thoroughly. It was a well-done tribute to an amazing artist. I admit to enjoying it SO much more than I expected to.
Just across the street was the home of the famous Nashville goo goo cluster. They’ve been making these sweet caramel peanut and chocolate candies since 1912 and they lived up to the hype. It is incredible how the stages in the bars (most of them with their drummer’s backs pressed just inside the storefront windows) are occupied with excellent live music as early as 10am. Walking up and down Broadway is a treat for the ears and it’s hard to decide where to stop and listen with so many open doors and windows beckoning us in. We ventured along Rep John Lewis Way and found our lunch destination a little early. We were meeting a dear former student from the old Penn View who has been living and thriving in Nashville for six years.
Olivia arrived and we had some delicious southern fare while we heard about her life and career in the city. It made me feel equal parts proud and ancient. Discovered that despite my best intentions, I do not care for okra. Even deep fried, it is heretofore going to be a no thanks.
Visited Printer’s Alley and made our way to the John Seigenthaler Pedestrian Bridge (a truss bridge with a span of over 3000 feet) which gave us wonderful views of the river and the Nashville skyline. Nissan Stadium, home of the Tennessee Titans sat just across the river. We had planned to play the afternoon by ear (pun intended) and did so by hoofing it back to our condo to rest our weary feet before venturing out again later. We hit 14,000 steps by 2 pm which is about a zillion percent increase over my usual sedentary existence as a person with a desk job….
Had tickets for the Grand Ole Opry in the evening. First time for both of us. We saw Mark Wills, Graham Barham, The Band of Heathens, The Oak Ridge Boys, The Whites, Drake Milligan, Lauren Alaina, and Old Crow Medicine Show. As one who diligently tries to avoid Country Music, I was a little alarmed to realize I know all the words to Elvira. And I have no idea why. 😂
Day Five
Drove out to East Nashville and had a delicious breakfast at Snooze, a fun spot recommended by Olivia. The retro decor was awesome and their chai tea was worth the carbs.
Continued on to 12th Avenue South where colorfully painted local shops, boutiques, restaurants and coffee shops dotted the half-mile walkable streets. Encouraging messages were painted right onto the sidewalks under our feet. Makes me want to go home and get out my stencils and paint but I’m guessing it would be considered graffiti in Hatfield. Found a birthday gift for Rameen. Let’s see if I can wait until October to give it to him.
Drove back to Opryland because I talked Jim into two tickets on the Delta riverboat to float us around on a guided tour inside the atrium of the excessive Gaylord Opryland Hotel. It is quite a place.
Visited the stained glass ceiling in the Cascade lobby while we were there.
Because Jim humored me twice within 2 hours, we also had a delicious late lunch at the Rainforest Cafe. The raucous elephant behind my husband was threatening the back of our heads with his impressive tusks and whipping his trunk around so forcefully, I actually felt a breeze. It was admittedly a little odd to go in there with no kids in tow, but as we looked around, most of the tables contained all adults. The vine-adorned ceiling, bird and monkey calls and the fake thunderstorms brought back fond memories from the years it was our small Aubrey’s restaurant of choice.
By 5:45pm I had Dramamine on board and a ponytail assembled to combat the evening breeze. Dragged poor Jim to the night trolley tour 45 minutes early so I could choose the tallest seat with the best views. 😆 It was a beautiful night for an open air trolley tour. Sunny and 83 today and maybe 5 degrees cooler in the evening. The tour was so informative.
We traveled out to see the Parthenon, we saw lots of Nashville sights and sang along with snippets of greatest hits while our guide and songwriter, Bert literally played along on his keyboard and encouraged us to sing with him.
Learned a lot about the area, studios, venues, clubs, artists, records, local lore and history. Our guide was next-level enthusiastic. In fact, after 90 minutes of nonstop information, it was a little exhausting just listening to the seemingly limitless facts in his head.
Day Six
It’s an hour earlier here than at home so we slept that hour away this morning. Quick breakfast at the condo and we were on our way downtown. We pre-purchased two tickets for the Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum for today. I’ve been kicking myself all week for not thinking to pack the cowgirl boots I was enticed to buy when my daughter lived in Austin. I’ll bet they’re weeping and singing sad country songs in my closet right now. Attempting to find parking downtown without paying a day’s wages is no small feat.
Once a spot was secured, we spent almost three hours in the museum and barely scratched the surface. Who knew there were many country artists? Displays for what felt like miles.
So many sparkly outfits, notebooks and old hotel stationery with handwritten playlists and penned lyrics. Well-worn guitars, fiddles and banjos.
Minnie Pearl’s iconic hat. Elvis Presley’s car. Innumerable photos, gold records, and awards. We emerged into the Tennessee sunshine and walked to Robert’s Western World on Broadway.
This is the original Nashville Honky-Tonk Grill where a long-haired feller in a black hat stamps your hand with an R upon entry (and I don’t know why). Walking inside felt a little like going back in time. It was a bit dark inside, deep like a hallway…its bar stools going on into the recesses where my sunshine-blind eyes had not yet adjusted well enough to see. The place was filled with the sounds of music, laughter, and bottles clinking. A bartender with mustache, handlebar sideburns and a white cowboy hat was boot-scooting around behind the counter making room for the folks who were tending the grill. The cuisine was limited for food (likely the same menu since the place opened around three decades ago) but there were ample drink options. Shelves of boots lined the walls. The place was absolutely jam-packed but a sweet young waitress assisted us right away. Clearly she’s a lip reader because she took our order effortlessly despite the din. The tables were tiny and circular and we had snagged the last one. It was barely noon yet the whole street was hopping with music, dancing, and drink. We ordered some delicacies for lunch. I had grilled cheese and Jim had the “recession special” (hold the moon pie). His was a fried bologna sandwich, piled high.
The young woman singing sounded like a young Emmylou Harris. Her name was Wendy Newcomer (Google her) and her bandmates (The Nashville Cats) were three older gentleman on the upright bass, fiddle, and electric slide guitar, respectively. All four of them had amazing singing voices.
After lunch, we took a self-guided tour of the historic Ryman Theater and you’ll be glad to know there is photo evidence of us up on the stage, smiling behind the microphone. More music memorabilia and the acquisition of a Christmas ornament for our tree (traditional purchase from our trips) followed. This one is a small replica of the legendary stained glass windows of the theater.
Then it was back to the candy shop for more goo goo clusters and on to Old Smoky Moonshine Distillery for items one might expect from such an establishment. Having walked almost four miles by that time, we ransomed the car from the parking garage, received $30 OFF our parking fee with our credit from this morning’s museum, and we drove back to the condo to write Natty a second postcard and put our feet up for a whole 45 minutes until we depart again. Have I mentioned one of us is doing all this walking while battling a case of plantar fasciitis? (The other one is sympathetic and supplying the ibuprofen.) Good times…. Hit a mall that felt a lot like KOP and headed back into the city for our last night in Nashville. We would have liked to listen to music at the Bluebird Cafe but it was closed for a private party.
Had dinner at the Acme Feed & Seed at the lower end of Broadway. I ordered Chicken Fried Chicken over Collard Greens with Mac n Cheese because when in Rome…. We had a great table for some awesome live music by Toppers Lite.
They’ve been playing here on Thursday nights for twelve years. As soon as I heard the saxophone player tuning up, I knew we were in for something good.
Dinner was great and the bass line thumping, vibrating the floor and my seat so effectively, it helped to shake those spicy collard greens down. The singer had some impressive pipes. At times sounded like Aretha Franklin. After dinner we walked up the many stairs to the rooftop of the restaurant for some wonderful parting views of the city and the river.
We made the trek up and down Broadway one more time. My feet are planning a strike at this point. We’ll see if they climb out of bed tomorrow.
Key-lime pie dipped in chocolate on a stick happened on this final evening, too. Because apparently, carbohydrates on vacation don’t count.
We leave for the drive home in the morning after breakfast at The Buttermilk Ranch in the Gulch. We’ll spend the night tomorrow in West Virginia, drive through Harrisonburg for one more Natty hug this weekend, and reunite with our cat, Irene by Saturday night.
I will admit…I have a new appreciation for country music. It’s unlikely I will choose it (if given an option) but some melodies and lyrics now hold the power to make me smile.
